For the Love of God: Islamic Shrine Ritual That Involves Adulterous Sex (Part I)

But just an hour out of the town you will find a hilltop Islamic shrine where Muslims across to country flock to, to conduct a ritual that involves adulterous sex.

The single grave here is believed to hold the legendary prince Pangeran Samodro and his stepmother, Nyai Ontrowulan.

Kuntjoro Soeparno is a Professor of Sociology at the University of Gajah Mada in Jogyakarta. 

He has been researching about Gunung Kemukus for thirty years.

“Pangeran Sandoro was the son of one of the Javanese kings and he ran away with his step-mother, his father’s wife.  They ran away and came to this place and they stayed and lived there together. There are lots of different versions of the legend that say they did something so embarrassing and if you do something more shameful the expectation is that if you do the ritual then you will be promptly blessed with good fortune.” 

The ritual that needs to be done here is: first prayers and offerings of flowers must be made at the grave of Pangeran Samodro and Nyai Ontrowulan. 

At some stage, pilgrims must wash themselves at either one or two of the sacred springs on the hill.

Then they need to find a stranger and have sex with them.  

“It has to be a stranger; someone they have never met before. It’s better if they don’t know each other. They need to do it on jumat Pon and need to do it seven times. So that’s every 35 days so it’s a relationship that lasts around a year.”

So it’s getting quite full now and in amongst the trees it’s quite dark but there is candle light and mats and people sitting around the roots of the trees… there are lots of women standing by themselves and mainly groups of men…..

“Most people who do the ritual are small business owners. They hope that if they carry out the ritual their business will improve and they will make good money and be successful.”  

It’s 8 o’clock inside the shrine… it has become quite smokey…. I have found one man who is wearing a leather jacket, glasses, partly balding on top, moustache… he is reading from the Al-Koran and hold beads…

Once he has finishes reciting the Al-Koran he’ll start looking for a lover ….

“In all the rooms around here there are couples. They are small business people and if you ask them they say it works, that before business was slow and now it’s good… It should be controlled by Allah and there is no other but Allah but this is the work of Allah through our traditional ways. 

Q. How about you?

“Yes, I am keen. Here you’re allowed to find a partner. I am keen… it’s just a matter of finding someone who wants the same thing.” 

Q. Does your wife know you’re here?

“No, she thinks I’ve gone to pray.”

We exchange phone numbers…and he promises to call when he has found someone. 

The ritual isn’t Islam as most would recognize it. Instead, it’s typical of Indonesians – and especially Java’s - mix of Islam with earlier Hindu, Buddhist and traditional beliefs, which are collectively known as kejawen.

But what is truly surprising is that even while Indonesia undergoes a steady shift towards more orthodox Islam, the ritual on Gunung Kemukus is exploding in popularity.

“Indonesia is amazing because whatever religion comes into Indonesia it changes its colour. The Islam is not just Islam like it is in Arab countries…Hinduism is different here to what it is in India…Buddhism is different from China…The Catholic church is different from in Rome..It’s not just Islam…. It’s Indonesia’s culturalization…. “ 

In recent years the local government officials here are trying to promote a G-rated version of the ritual, that is more in line with mainstream Islamic beliefs. 

M.Suparno the co-coordinator of tourism at Gunung Kemukus says that the government would prefer it if people forgot about the sex aspect of the ritual but they are not going to outlaw it.  

“That’s their beliefs. The people who travel a long way to come here have dreams that say you need to go to Gunung Kemukus and carry out that ritual. 

Q. So the government doesn't support the practice but because it’s a tradition it’s OK?

"It’s not really OK but this is a religious tourism site, religion is about beliefs and traditions including the beliefs of our forefathers.”

He adds that there is no way that they could ask for marriage certificates at the gates. 

In one of the warungs Isham and Fitri are giggling together….they have just paired up to do the ritual. 

“I was just sitting there… I was looking for someone… I was just sitting there eating peanuts and then he came up and asked me where I lived and I was like ‘ why is he asking me where I live?’ (laughs) Turns out that he is an MC… and I am a singer… …  LAUGHING 

I ask them if there is anyone at home waiting for them…

“I have a 4 ½ year old child…but have broken up with my husband.”

“I have a wife and two children… my wife doesn’t know I am here. I find an excuse so that I can get out and come here.”

So do you both believe that after doing this ritual you will have good luck?

“Ya I believe. If Allah is willing. 

“You know all Javanese believe in these ancestors’ traditions.” 

But the traditions here are moving with the times.